The Crossing
How to Cross from Villa O'Higgins to El Chaltén: The Complete Guide (2026-2027 Season)
Javi, SURi · Angélica and Marcus, Ruedas de la Patagonia · September 13, 2026 · updated October 26, 2026
Crossing from Villa O'Higgins to El Chaltén means going from Chile to Argentina without a vehicle, combining a boat ride, walking or cycling, and a second lake crossing on the Argentine side. We run the Chilean leg: we sail Lake O'Higgins from Puerto Bahamondes to Candelario Mancilla. From there you continue overland to the border marker and then cross Lago del Desierto. The pass operates between November 1 and April 30, and you need a PDI safe-conduct (salvoconducto), which you get free of charge online.
That is the short answer. Everything else is below, and it is what people ask us on WhatsApp every day of the season.
I'm Marcus, captain of Turismo Ruedas de la Patagonia. We have sailed this lake for years and have taken hundreds of cyclists, backpackers and walkers to the other side. This is written from what we see happen, not from what we found on the internet.
What are the six legs of the crossing?
The full crossing is six legs. Laying them out in order is the best way to understand it:
- Villa O'Higgins → Puerto Bahamondes. 7 kilometers by minibus. We run it and it is included at no cost, leaving from our offices one hour before the boat departs.
- Puerto Bahamondes → Candelario Mancilla. Boat across Lake O'Higgins. We run this one too.
- Border formalities at Candelario Mancilla. The Chilean customs post is about 1,200 meters from the port.
- Candelario Mancilla → border marker. 16 kilometers of gravel road through ancient ñire and lenga forest. You do it on foot, by bicycle or on horseback.
- Border marker → northern tip of Lago del Desierto. 5 kilometers of forest, where you meet Argentine Gendarmería, where the official entry into Argentina takes place. Then you cross Lago del Desierto by launch. We can also sell you that ticket.
- Lago del Desierto → El Chaltén. Ground transport on the Argentine side.
Of the six legs, we take care of legs 1 and 2, and we sell you the ticket for leg 5.
Which days and what time does the boat leave?
The Puerto Bahamondes → Candelario Mancilla crossing departs at 07:30:
| Season | Days |
|---|---|
| November and December | Monday and Thursday |
| January and February | Monday, Thursday and Saturday |
| March and April | Monday and Thursday |
The return crossing, Candelario Mancilla → Puerto Bahamondes, departs at 17:00, on the same days.
The boat ride takes 1 hour and 45 minutes.
The free minibus leaves our offices in Villa O'Higgins one hour before departure. And one thing is worth being clear about: you must be at the pier at least 45 minutes before departure. Before every sailing the Maritime Authority inspects the boat, and if you arrive at the last minute you risk being left on shore. It is, by far, the most common reason someone misses the crossing.
What do I need before boarding?
Three things, and all three are your responsibility:
1. The PDI safe-conduct. It is mandatory to cross the Dos Lagunas Pass. It is free, you get it entirely online at pdichile.cl, and we cannot do it for you: the procedure is personal and non-transferable. Get it before you reach the pier — without a safe-conduct you will not be able to cross the border even if you have sailed.
2. Your documents at hand, not at the bottom of your backpack. National ID card or passport, valid and in good condition. You will need them as soon as you step off the boat.
3. Your details, when you book. For each passenger we need full name, RUT or passport number, nationality, age and a WhatsApp number or email. This isn't our bureaucracy: it is what the Maritime Authority requires to authorize the sailing. Without those details, the boat cannot leave.
And if you are traveling by bicycle: let us know when you book. The bicycle travels included as luggage, at no extra charge, but spaces for bikes are limited. Show up with the bicycle without its panniers: the panniers travel stored inside the boat and the bicycle goes outside, so your gear doesn't get wet.
Don't have your own bicycle? Our friends at Riding Suri rent e-bikes in Villa O'Higgins and accompany the crossing as far as the border post.
Can it all be done in one day?
It can, but it is a long day and it depends on several connections we don't control.
Our heartfelt recommendation is different: stay overnight in Candelario Mancilla and set out early the next day. The crossing is enjoyed at a different pace, you aren't racing the clock, and Candelario Mancilla is much more than a stopover — a remote corner on the shore of the lake, surrounded by forest and mountains, with a family of long pioneer history. You can camp, sleep at the guesthouse, have something hot to eat and spend time with the people who live at this far edge of the world.
Almost nobody who stays regrets it. Quite a few of those who pass straight through do.
What happens if weather cancels it?
It happens, and it's better you know before and not on the day.
Lake O'Higgins has strong, changeable winds, and there are days when sailing is simply not safe. When that happens, we move the date. It is not a commercial decision: it is the only possible decision.
That's why we ask two things of you: book early — so we can warn you ahead of time and rearrange your trip without rushing — and don't plan an impossible connection on the other side. If you have a flight out of El Calafate the day after the crossing, you are playing with fire. Leave a buffer day.
How much does it cost and what is included?
The price per person for this season:
from CLP $65,000 per person (2026-2027 season)What the crossing does include, so you can compare:
- The minibus transfer Villa O'Higgins – Puerto Bahamondes, free, outbound.
- The full boat trip across Lake O'Higgins.
- Snacks and coffee on board.
- The bicycle, at no extra charge.
Discounts for children: children under 2 travel free (one child per two adults); ages 2 to 4, 40% off; ages 4 to 8, 30% off.
It does not include the Argentine legs or lodging in Candelario Mancilla.
A few words about the lake you're about to cross
It is worth knowing what you're getting into.
Lake O'Higgins is binational: on the Chilean side it is called Lago O'Higgins and on the Argentine side it was named Lago San Martín. Two national heroes, each on his own side of the mountains, on the same body of water.
At 836 meters, it is one of the deepest in South America and the fifth deepest in the world. It sits 265 meters above sea level and its turquoise waters are 90% glacial in origin, with an average temperature of 5.7 degrees.
And if you look carefully during the crossing, you will see settlements around the basin. About 12 families live there, with 100% lake-based connectivity: there is no road, you come and go by boat. They live from subsistence farming and ranching, with a great deal of effort. This is not an empty landscape: it is an inhabited territory.
Book your crossing on the Candelario Mansilla – Route to El Chaltén page, or message us on WhatsApp at +56 9 6627 8836 if you have any questions. A person answers, not a robot.
Read also: Frequently asked questions about the border and the safe-conduct
Frequently asked questions
Can I cross by car or motorcycle?
No. The Dos Lagunas Pass is a crossing on foot, by bicycle or on horseback, with boat and walking stretches. It is not open to vehicles.
Which months does the crossing run?
From November 1 to April 30, the period when the border pass is open.
Do I need a safe-conduct (salvoconducto)?
Yes, it is mandatory and free. You apply for it online at pdichile.cl. We cannot do it for you.
Does the bicycle cost extra?
No. It travels included as luggage. Just let us know when you book: spaces for bicycles are limited.
How many people fit on the boat?
We sail with two boats: Campito I, for 16 passengers, and Campito II, for 26 passengers.
Is there a toilet and wifi on board?
Yes, both boats have a toilet, heating and Starlink wifi. But there is no cell coverage along the whole route, so let people at home know before you sail.
Can I rent an e-bike if I don't have my own bicycle?
Yes. Our friends at Riding Suri rent electric bikes in Villa O'Higgins and accompany the crossing as far as the border post.
Any questions left?
Message us on WhatsApp at +56 9 6627 8836. The family answers, not a bot.
